A Walk Around Place des Vosges

Starting Point: Place de la Bastille

Metro Station: Bastille

Arrondissement: 4eme

A Walk Around Place des Vosges: From the Bastille to Cubism.

This walk in Paris begins at the metro station Bastille. This station can be reached by metro lines # 1, # 5 and # 8. Exit the station by the door leading to Rue de la Roquette. Then, follow the sign to the Opéra Bastille, by turning right. Once outside, walk up the stairs on the left. You will be met by a clear view of the Column of the Bastille.

By walking around to the right of the Place (north), you can get to the Boulevard Beaumarchais. It is the next street after Avenue Richard Lenoir, which is distinguished by a wide, tree-lined parkway, which often holds open-air markets. Turn right (north) on Boulevard Beaumarchias.

On the left side of the street, the second street you come to is Rue Pas de la Mule. Turn left here (west). In a few steps you will notice the red-bricked buildings that make up the Place des Vosges.

The park in the center of the Place des Voges is called Square Louis XIII. Often, the grassy areas are available for use here. Other times, "Le pelouse au repos", which means, "The lawn is resting", which means, don't sit on it.

When you come to the Place des Vosges, turn left, in front of Square Louis XIII, and you will be walking down an arcade with columns and a vaulted ceiling. It will feel as if you've just entered the 17th century.

Directly ahead, past the fine cafés and art galleries, at the corner of this arcade, is the house addressed 6 Place des Vosges. This is the house once lived in by Victor Hugo, from 1832-1848. It is now a museum. It is open everyday, except Mondays and holidays, from 10 a.m. - 6 p.m., and the admission is free.

Continue walking the arcade to the next corner.where there is a small, unassuming door on your left. Walk through here and you enter into the lovely 17th century courtyard of Hôtel de Sully.

Often, photographic exhibts are offered here at Hôtel de Sully. The entrance to the exhibition room, called Jeu de Paume-Site Sully, is at the far right corner of this courtyard.

Under the arches, across the courtyard, is the Hôtel de Sully bookstore. By passing under these arches you will enter into another, though smaller, courtyard. Passing through the next archway will bring you out onto Rue de St. Antoine.

Return to the Place des Vosges by walking back through the courtyards of Hôtel de Sully. Retracing your steps here will not feel to be a waste of time. By walking straight through the door that led you into the courtyards, you will be able to continue your tour of Place des Vosges.

When you get back to Rue de la Pas Mule, turn left, and walk directly across Rue de Ternne. Now, you will be on Rue de Francs Bourgeois, which is just filled with small and very colorful clothing boutiques.

Even if you don't go into the museum, go into the courtyard. It is impressive, with it's 12 large sculpted figures in bas-relief high on the walls and a bronze statue of Louis XIV, standing in the center of the courtyard.

Return to Rue de Francs Boureois and turn right. Very quickly is the arched entrance to the second courtyard of the Hôtel Carnavalet. It, too, is impressive, with its flower gardens and the statue of a winged goddess, offering laurel wreaths of honor.

Across the street is the Hôtel d'Albret, built in 1550. It is now the home of the Direction of Cultural Affaires.

Two streets after the Musée Carnavalet is Rue Elzévir. Turn right (north) here. In a few steps you will come upon the Hôtel de Donon, built in 1575, now housing the Musée Cognacq-Jay. This museum contains 18th-century porcelain and furniture, paintings and sculptures from the collection of Ernest Cognacq. The museum is open 10 a.m.-5:40 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday, and the admission is free.

Continuing down Rue Elzévir will bring you to the small Place de Thorigny. Continue straight through this Place, though, you will have to make a slight diagonal to do so. A few steps down Rue de Thorigny and you will arrive at the Musée Picasso. This building is the mid-17th century Hôtel Salé.

This museum contains around 3500 examples of Picasso's work, donated to France as payment of inheritance taxes.

Retracing your steps back to the Place de Thorigny, turn right (west) at Rue de la Perle. The first street you come to is Rue Vielle du Temple. On the right (north) side of this intersection is the Jardin de l'Hôtel Salé. On the left (south) side is the Hôtel de Rohan.

Here the street changes names to Rue des 4 Fils.

The next street is Rue des Archives. On the right (north) side is the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, located in the Hôtel Génégaud, built during 1648-1651. This museum is closed until August, 2005. On the left side is the Archives Nationale. Turn left here on Rue des Archives.

On the SW corner of Rue des 4 Fils and Rue des Archives is a very interesting drinking water fountain. It's as large as a small building. The spigot is a bronze lion's head. There is a push-lever above the spigot that you push and pull to turn on and off.

The next intersection is Rue Rambuteau. Turn left here and immediately is the entrance to the National Archives, also called the Musée de l'Histoire de France. The courtyard, here, of Hôtel Soubisse, is something to see. The museum is closed here until September 2005. However, it has been relocated, for this duration, in Hôtel Rohan. It is open Monday-Friday (closed Tuesday) from 10 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. (closed from 12:30 - 2) and on Saturday and Sunday it is open from 2 p.m. - 5:30 p.m. and closed on holidays.

Turning right on Rue Rambuteau will bring you to Rue du Temple. Here on the right (NW) corner is the Musée d'Art et Histoire de Judaïsm. It is housed in the Hôtel de St. Aignag, built during 1645-1650. The museum is open 11 a.m. - 6 p.m., Monday-Friday and 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is, for adults 6.80 euros, for 18-26 years old 4.50 euros, and for those under 18 years old it is free.

Continuing down Rue Rambuteau brings you to the next street, Rue Beaubourg and to the Georges Pompidou Center, as well as the metro station Rambuteau, on metro line # 11.